Cycling the Paso Agua Negra from Argentina to Chile: a cautionary tale

The Paso Agua Negra (‘Blackwater Pass’) is one of many crossings from Argentina to Chile over the Andes. This pass reaches an altitude of 4770 meters, with a good-quality unpaved road but very little traffic, so it has become increasingly popular with cyclists. I read several stories of crossing here (like the excellent description at Andes By Bike) that described it as a smooth journey, so I expected that it would go equally smoothly for us in mid-December 2015. Things were more complicated, however. Continue reading Cycling the Paso Agua Negra from Argentina to Chile: a cautionary tale

West along Argentina’s RN150

From Chamical we cycled a day up to Patquía, where we turned onto the RN150 highway heading west. Patquía itself is a tiny town with no drinking water from taps and a lot of dust. We had to ask at the petrol station if we could pitch our tent there, a request that was readily granted – perhaps due to the vast distances between towns, petrol stations in rural Argentina are quite happy to help cyclists, motorcyclists, or hitchhikers out with camping sites and free wifi.

We didn’t know how feasible it would be to cycle the RN150 west. It passes through the desert of the provinces La Rioja and then San Juan, with very few settlements. Furthermore, a substantial portion of it was only finished in October 2014, so there hasn’t been any time for roadside businesses to appear. We nonetheless decided to risk it, but we each took many extra liters of water. Continue reading West along Argentina’s RN150

La Rioja: desert and dying villages

After crossing the Sierra Central, we had to cycle a few dozen kilometers north through the rest of Córdoba province. The scenery was much the same as before the mountains, but it was starting to get hotter. We got from Salsacate to Villa Carlos Paz, then decided to call it a day. Villa Carlos Paz is a fairly large town and a major crossroads. It has a free municipal campsite near the river, though it is one of the most neglected municipal campsites we’ve seen among many (toilets closed forever, the ground covered with thorny plants). Continue reading La Rioja: desert and dying villages

Cycling over Argentina’s Sierra Central

Continuing our westward journey from Córdoba meant going over the 2000-meter passes of the Sierra Central, Argentina’s other major mountain range besides the famous Andes. We originally planned on the RP34 road, which has asphalt and leads through the Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito which serves as a sanctuary for condors. A fellow cyclist recommended a lesser-known road, the RP28, which brought us into some impressive terrain with very little traffic.A cyclist carrying panniers in front of the Los Gigantes rock formations Continue reading Cycling over Argentina’s Sierra Central

Across Argentina’s Entre Rios province

Crossing the bridge from Uruguay near Fray Bentos brought us into a rather different place: things a little shabbier here (though nowhere near what I expected from hearing that Argentina has been an economic basket case since long before I was born), and there is something in the distances between things and the demeanor of the locals that told us that we had arrived in a “big country”. Continue reading Across Argentina’s Entre Rios province